The Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette: Inspired Transformation Sculptured Into High Jewellery
- Uber Digital Luxury
- Mar 18
- 2 min read
The Tubogas Manchette is one of the most distinctive creations within the high-jewellery watch collections of Bvlgari. Founded in Rome in 1884 by Sotirio Bulgari, the maison developed a design language recognised for bold proportions, architectural structure and vibrant gemstone compositions inspired by classical Roman art and design.
A defining element of the piece is the historic Tubogas construction technique, a method first introduced by Bvlgari in the 1940s. The name derives from industrial gas pipes, whose flexible metal tubing inspired the engineering of the jewellery structure. In this technique, long strips of precious metal are wrapped around a core to create a continuous spiral bracelet. The process forms a flexible structure without visible soldering, producing the signature coiled form that adapts naturally to the wrist while maintaining structural integrity.
The modern Tubogas Manchette revisits a cuff design originally created by Bvlgari in the 1970s, translating the historic concept into a contemporary high-jewellery watch. The bracelet is crafted in 18-carat yellow gold using the Tubogas coiling technique that gives the piece its distinctive flexible architecture. Integrated directly into the bracelet is a 16 mm round watch case set with a pavé diamond dial, allowing the jewellery form to remain the dominant visual element.
Gem-setting plays a central role in the composition of the Manchette. The bracelet incorporates approximately 11.98 carats of diamonds alongside a vibrant arrangement of coloured gemstones including spessartite garnets, citrines, rubellites, peridots, amethysts and topazes. These stones are integrated across the bracelet structure, creating colour contrasts against the polished gold coils while maintaining the sculptural continuity of the Tubogas design.
Powering the watch is the BVS100 Lady Solotempo automatic movement, a manufacture calibre developed by Bvlgari specifically for compact jewellery watches. Despite its small dimensions, the movement delivers a 50-hour power reserve, combining mechanical reliability with the aesthetics of high jewellery craftsmanship.
The Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette reference 104093 is positioned within the maison’s high jewellery watch category and carries an official retail price of $190,000 USD.
Courtesy: Bvlgari
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